![]() ![]() “The more dumplings I made, the faster I got at it,” Chen says of his advanced dumpling prowess. Now, he makes hundreds of dumplings at a time (usually alone, though sometimes with his mom, who now lives on Long Island with his dad), instinctively swiping the thin wrapper with a finger dipped in water, dropping a mound of meat mix in the center and folding the dumpling in half with a meticulously detailed, fan-like fold. But you can put them in the freezer and eat them whenever you want.” “Dumplings are something I grew up eating,” Chen says, “something that my mom and I always made together-it was always fun, but took a long time. As a lifelong New Yorker, Chen developed an affinity for both the Chinese-American dishes served at his parents’ restaurant and more authentic fare from their homeland, like dumplings and chicken feet. At home, however, Chen’s mother enjoyed cooking, and Chen observed her in the kitchen, learning recipes she brought over from China. But they weren’t passionate about serving food. “Growing up in Queens and living here, I like to get my inspiration from the Chinese restaurants in the heart of Flushing-I like to incorporate all the different flavors in my style of cooking,” Chen says.Ĭhen’s parents immigrated to New York City from Hong Kong, opening a Chinese-American takeout restaurant in Westchester to provide for their family. Sun leaks through the windows onto marble countertops and the sounds of birds chirping outside on a spring day are only drowned out by the overhead vent when Chen starts pan-frying handmade dumplings (stuffed with a proprietary mix of ground pork, shrimp and pea shoots) he constructed at the counter facing his dining area just minutes ago. ![]() The open kitchen, which he renovated with his wife as part of a year-long project in 2017, fits at least four adults. But, par for the course in Manhattan, the restaurant’s kitchen is too small for efficient recipe testing, especially while Chen’s staff preps for dinner service.Įnter: Chen’s Queens dream kitchen, a good hike (or short ride) from the Flushing–Main Street stop on the 7 train. Most days, the 33-year-old chef, a tall, commanding presence in his home and work kitchens, drives the 45 minutes from his townhouse in suburban Flushing to his 48-seat restaurant on East Fifth Street. It’s been there for two days, literally chilling, as part of a recipe test for a new appetizer at his East Village restaurant, Tuome. ![]()
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